PERFUME CHARACTERISTICS – HOW TO SPEAK PERFUME PART IV

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Now we are going to explore the nuances of fragrance.   You will learn the small distinctions of what makes a fragrance heavy, full-bodied, and more.

Let’s get started…

ANIMALIC – Characterized by bodily aromas or aromas most associated with traditional animal materials such as musk, civet, ambergris, and castoreum.  They are often strong and unpleasant in their concentrated form, yet in smaller quantities, these notes provide depth to a fragrance.  These materials are now banned for use by large perfume houses and have been replaced with musks obtained from plants, and civet and castoreum smelling molecules made in high-end laboratories.

AROMATIC – A term used to describe a sensation which is between smell and taste.  These perfumes have strong scents and diffuse in the surrounding environment easily.  Think of scents like coffee, lavender, or ginger.

BITTER – A perfume devoid of any sweetness.   They are fresh green notes like camphor and eucalyptus, but can also be descriptive of rosemary and other herbal notes.

CLOYING – An odor that is excessively sticky sweet.

CONIFEROUS – Scents originating from cone-bearing trees and shrubs.

DEPTH –A rich full-bodied fragrance with low volatility.

DRY – A sensation produced by certain perfume ingredients which have a woody, masculine effect.

EARTHY – Notes that give the impression of freshly turned earth, soil, the forest floor, mold, and moss. These notes are musty and rooty.

EVANESCENT – A fleeting or quickly vanishing fragrance.

FLAT – A perfume which lacks lift, diffusion and distinction.

FLOWERY – Quite simply, fragrances that smell like flowers.   This term is also used to describe certain aromatic chemicals such as heliotropin, hedione, rhodinol and anistic aldehyde.

FRESH – Invigorating outdoor or nature-inspired fragrances with green and citrus notes.

FRUITY – All fragrances that smell like fruit (excluding citrus) within the fragrance theme.  These would be raspberry, strawberry and mango notes.

FULL-BODIED – A well-rounded fragrance possessing depth and richness.

FUNGAL – Odors suggestive of molds, mushrooms, and fungi.  They are an important note in muguet and other floral fragrances.

HARSH – Fragrances that are crude, unbalanced, rough pungent odor.

HEADY – Fragrances that are exhilarating, sparkling, stimulating.

HEAVY – Fragrances that can be forceful or intense.  They are also often sweet and balsamic.

HERBACEOUS – A fragrance note that is grassy-green, cool, and somewhat therapeutic, e.g., thyme, clary-sage, or chamomile.

LIGHT – Fragrances that are generally non-sweet and have dominant fresh notes.   They are often formulated as an Eau Fraiche or deodorant cologne for all-over body wear in warm climates or for sports.

MELLOW – A fragrance that gives a balanced, smooth and rich impression.

MODERN – A modern fragrance is a harmonious creation of the perfumer based on new notes or harmonies often unknown in nature.  This era of fragrances began at the beginning of the 20th century when synthetic aroma chemicals such as aldehydes were first used.

MOSSY – Perfumes suggestive of aromatic lichens, and mosses (primarily oak and tree moss); and are reminiscent of forest depths.

POWDERY – Fragrances with a baby-powder effect.  They are produced when a heavier sweet or woody note is blended with a lighter note such as citrus, fruity or light green note.  They can be sweet, dry, and have a somewhat musky odor.

SWEET – Rich fragrances with a decadent ambrosial characteristic that can feel like sugar, honey, and caramel.

THIN – A fragrance lacking body, depth or warmth to soften the impact of the more aggressive and volatile components.

UMAMI – A savory fragrance note and is one of the five basic tastes together with sweet, sour, bitter, and salty.

VELVETY – A soft, smooth, mellow fragrance without harsh chemical notes.

Onward.

Part V – Perfume Notes

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